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hell mission award


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Steve SosichWinner

12 gates and a shotgun

It all started when a good mate Colin and I had a bit of spare time one winter. We decided that when the swell was maxing on the west coast and the winds were right we would head off to surf a mysto semi-fictional left hander down south. We had heard stories of freight train Munducca like pits and having both experienced the later we were off on a mission armed with maps and high hopes. Having arrived at the end of the road we tried to access the farm track only to be stopped by a sign on the gate saying ‘Private Property Keep Out’. So not to be deterred we backtracked to the local store and found out who the owner was got the phone book out and gave him a call.

“Yeah come on up” he said “turn left at the first gate, go through another 14 gates, turn right at the creek and come up the hill”. “Cool mate, see you soon” was the reply and off we went.

Being the middle of winter we were very grateful to have the trusty 4wd Subaru as it was wet and bloody muddy. Having gone through the first 11 gates we were confronted by the next, sporting another intimidating sign stating we weren’t welcome. Having just spoken to the land owner we chose to ignore this warning and drove through confident of soon slipping into double overhead pits. Col was about to jump back in after closing the gate when we heard a frightening yell coming from an old run down barn. “Ooiiiii F@#k off!”. There standing on the front porch was a large Maori version of Grizzly Adams with a shot gun in his arms. Col immediately introduced himself and proceeded to explain that he should chill out as we had permission from Fred the Farmer. I don’t think Griz knew Fred as his next roar was “Piss off or I’’ll f@#kin shoot yahs”. So with all four wheels spinning it was back thru the 12 gates cursing and wondering if Griz was for real or what.

Back at the store we phoned Fred and relayed the events only to be told not to worry and come on up. “That’s alright for you to say – he wants to shoot us” I said. “oh well you can’t be very keen to surf then” he said . But we were keen as so back we went thru 11 gates and then gingerly through the 12th to once again be confronted by Griz and his gun. This time we gave him a friendly wave and drove on heads down low.

After an arduous drive we finally arrived at the farm house to be met by Fred at the gate .”Come up to the house for a cuppa” he said.

“Nah its alright thanks mate, we’ll just go have a surf and see you after” “No you won’t “ he said “leave your boards in the car and come up to the house” Reluctantly we agreed and off we went. We had a great discussion with Fred about the farm and his family and he made a great cuppa tea. We finally got on to the reason we had come all this way only to be told that we could go for a walk down to the beach but we couldn’t take our boards. He reckoned if he let us surf then he couldn’t guarantee that our car would be intact after our surf and that it might be a pile of ashes as had happened in the past to other non-complying intrepid explorer surfers. It seems that Griz had put the word out to the very protective locals that a couple of townies had gained access to their jewel and a posse was being organised to see to it that we didn’t steal the treasure.

So begrudgingly we traipsed off on foot, boardless down the hill to the coast. On the way we could see lines stacked to the horizon and it was clear that the conditions were primo. Colin and I were momentarily speechless as we turned the corner only to both just completely loose it and start screaming and hooting as an 8 foot set unloaded down the point with flawless perfection. We watched another 4 or 5 sets repeat the display and bolted back to Farmer Fred to plead our case. He listened to our childlike pleading and grovelling but said he couldn’t do it as “the boys” were likely to be on the way and he couldn’t say what would happen to our car and gear. We were horrified. “What do we do?” Col asked, “let’s just do it” – but it was my wheels not his!!

I can hear you saying “go for it” and we almost did but as many people have probably experienced, the thought of mindless vandalism for the sake of a surf just doesn’t warrant it... does it? These guys had the power and they used it to protect their spot and good on them – but man what a hell mission it was.

Steve Sosich

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